Travel: Stockholm’s Archipelago

Airbnb house and terrace in Swedish countryside near Stockholm
View of harbour from Airbnb terrace in Sweden near Stockholm
Inside Airbnb Swedish cabin ear Stockholm
Me in retro Nike t-shirt and suede button down skirt with view from Airbnb Swedish cabin
I had been wanting to go to Sweden, and more specifically to Stockholm, for ages but living in Paris, the thought of staying in central Stockholm for a whole week just felt a bit much. So, we looked on trusty AIRBNB and found this absolute gem of a place just 20 minutes drive from central Stockholm. It was right in the countryside with views over an enchanting nearby harbour and natural park. It was the perfect place to have a base for both city seeing and visiting the region’s archipelago, which is made up of around 30,000 islands!

Ça fait longtemps que je veux visiter la Suède, et Stockholm plus précisément, mais vu qu’on habite à Paris, on ne voulait pas rester pour une semaine en centre ville de Stockholm. Donc, on a regardé sur notre site préféré AIRBNB et on a trouvé cette cabane géniale à juste 20 minutes en voiture de Stockholm. Elle se situe en plein campagne avec des vues charmantes d’un port et d’un parc de nature. C’était parfait pour découvrir la ville et la région, y compris l’archipel qui est fait d’environ 30.000 iles!

Ferry ride to Utö Stockholm archipelago
Lewis on ferry ride to Utö Stockholm archipelago
On the Sunday of our trip, we drove down to Årsta Havsbad to catch a ferry to the island described as the star of the southern archipelago, Utö. Make sure you CHECK FERRY TIMES in advance of any island hopping because we didn’t and ended up waiting for about 45 minutes for a ferry (so unorganised, I know). It cost 150kr for a return and took about an hour each way. Now that’s the boring but useful organisational details out of the way – which are sometimes hard to find on t’internet – let’s get onto the good stuff. 
Le dimanche, on a conduit à Årsta Havsbad pour prendre le ferry à Utö – l’ile qu’on décrit comme l’étoile de l’archipel du sud. Je te conseille de REGARDER DES HORAIRES DE FERRYS en avance parce qu’on n’avait pas fait et alors on a attendu 45 minutes pour un ferry (pas très organisé, j’avoue). Le ferry coût 150kr l’aller-retour et il prend environ une heure. Bon, je t’ai dit des détails ennuyeux mais importants – souvent difficile à trouver sur Internet – maintenant je te parle des choses intéressantes. 
Swedish cabins on Utö island in Stockholm archipelago
Me walking through forest in Utö Stockholm archipelago, Kanken backpack

The ferry ride was a dream – amazing scenery and just so refreshing to feel the sea breeze  – this is the kind of thing I have no come to appreciate living in a, yes beautiful but also, very polluted capital city. We were actually aiming to get off the ferry at Gruvbryggan (well, we thought this was the only stop) but we accidentally got off at Spränga. I slightly panicked when we realised this just as the ferry was pulling away but it was actually a god send. Spränga was just a half an hour walk to our original destination through some lovely unspoilt forests and views of our much-loved Swedish cabins. So I highly recommend that you accidentally-now-on-purpose take the ferry to Spränga and walk to Gruvbryggan!

Le ferry était super – des belles vues et très frais avec la brise de mer. On a voulu descendre à Gruvbryggan (on a pensé qu’il n’y avait qu’un arrêt) mais par hasard, on est descendu à Spränga. J’ai paniqué un peu mais en fait c’était mieux! Spränga est à 30 minutes de Gruvbryggan au pieds par des bons forets magnifiques. Du coup, je te conseille de par-hasard-mais-pas-par-hasard de descendre le ferry à Spränga et marcher à Gruvbryggan! 

Gruvbryggan town on Utö island Stockholm archipelago, Utö Bageri
Me on beach near Gruvbryggan, Utö Stockholm archipelago
Forest and beach near Gruvbryggan town on Utö island Stockholm archipelago
In Gruvbryggan we bought some rolls and Swedish sweet buns from the much hyped Utö Bageri bakery and enjoyed them sitting on the nearby beach. The vanilla sweet bun was absolutely delicious – as you can see, I was enjoying them so much that I forgot to snap them! After chilling on the beach for a while, we went for an early evening kayak which was amazing! When we were kayaking back into the harbour I jumped in for a little swim. It was really cold but very liberating – swimming in Swedish waters is a must! It was the perfect little day trip out into the nature.

À Gruvbryggan on a acheté des petits pains salés et sucrés à Utö Bageri – une boulangerie avec plein de hype – et on les a mangé sur la plage. Le petit pain à la vanille est délicieux et comme tu peux voir, je les ai aimés trop que j’ai oublié de les prendre en photo! Après qu’on s’est détendu sur la plage, on a fait du kayak qui était super! En rentrant au port, j’ai sauté dans l’eau pour me baigner. C’était froid mais très libérateur – il faut se baigner dans l’eau suédois! C’était un petit voyage parfait dans la nature.

Boats in Vaxholm harbour Stockholm archipelago
Houses in Vaxholm Stockholm archipelago
Shops in Vaxholm centre capital of Stockholm archipelago
Our final visit to Stockholm’s archipelago was to its capital, Vaxholm. It’s a pretty little harbour side town but it is quite touristy. We had a wander around for a hour or so and then had lunch with a view of the boats – rolls and sweets buns again of course! I am glad that we visited Vaxholm but I think I would’ve preferred going somewhere else a bit more remote like Utö – I guess it depends what you’re into!
Pour notre dernière visite à l’archipel de Stockholm, on est allé à sa capitale, Vaxholm. C’est un village joli avec un port mais il y a pas mal de touristes. On s’est baladé un peu et puis on a déjeuné avec un vue des bateaux – des petits pains encore, bien-sûr! Je suis contente qu’on y est allé mais je pense que j’aurais préféré d’aller quelque part plus isolé comme Utö – ça dépend ce que tu aimes!


Check out my other Stockholm travel posts – Stockholm photo diary and Stockholm mini food guide

Travel: Stockholm, A Mini Food Guide

Hello! And welcome to the second instalment of my Sweden posts – a mini food guide to beautiful city of Stockholm. Lewis and I are both vegetarians so when travelling it can sometimes be hard to find places to eat. Luckily, Sweden caters pretty well for vegetarians – they even sell quorn – so we managed to find some little gems that meat eaters would love also for sure!
Vegetarian curry at vegetarian restaurant Chutney in Stockholm
Chutney - Best vegetarian restaurant cafe in Södermalm, Stockholm
Chutney - Where to eat find good vegetarian food in Stockholm
Chutney – Katarina Bangata 19, Södermalm, Stockholm

First stop on the culinary tour had to be the famous vegetarian cafe/restaurant, Chutney, in the heart of Södermalm and it was a god send for us. It was so good that we went there twice and I would definitely recommend this place regardless of whether you eat meat or not. The menu changes daily and there are four different options for the cheap lunch menu costing 88kr (98kr on weekends). Both times we went for the curry option – one being a creamy thai curry and the second one being a lentil dhal – but there is also usually a veggie bean burger, pasta dish and chilli sin carne. If you go for lunch during the week then you get free second helping! My kind of place. 
Outside Gildas Rum cafe in Södermalm, Stockholm
Afternoon tea and cake, fika
Best cafes in Södermalm, Stockholm
Best places to fika in Stockholm
Retro, vintage cafe Gildas Rum in Södermalm, Stockholm
Gildas Rum – Skånegatan 79, Södermalm, Stockholm

Now, everyone likes to take a tea or coffee break amongst friends, munching on some delicious cake or baked good right? Well in Sweden, this is what they call “fika”. In fact, it’s not just a coffee break but a social phenomenon that we just had to take part in. We fika-ed twice in the beautifully decorated Gildas Rum cafe in Södermalm. In true fika style, Lewis and I shared a chocolate mud cake and raspberry & caramel tart whilst I sipped on mint tea and Lewis had an orange juice. It was just delicious and a perfect tradition to be honouring while Stockholm experienced some serious rainfall. 
Falafel and humous at FLFL in Södermalm, Stockholm
Me drinking wine in Södermalm, Stockholm
FLFL – Skånegatan 87, Södermalm, Stockholm

The little restaurant is about to get a serious compliment from me. I have tasted quite a few falafel and humous dishes in my time and although nothing will ever beat Chez Hanna in Paris, FLFL comes in at a close second. This enormous plate of humous was delicious – smooth and creamy with some soft, not at all dry falafel balls on top for just 95kr. We ordered a baked sweet potato and some chips to share on the side which were the perfect accompaniment. This down-to-earth cafe is situated on the buzzing Skånegatan where there are lots of bars for continuing the evening afterwards. Just great.

Kanelbulle swedish cinnamon bun fika

And lastly, you just have to try Swedish sweet buns – they are the perfect snack or dessert that can be found in any bakery. This one is a cinnamon bun but you can also get cardamon, vanilla or just sugar ones. Yum.

I hope you enjoyed this little food insight into Stockholm! For more Sweden posts, check out my Stockholm Photo Diary and I have a shopping guide and archipelago posts to come!

Izzie x

Travel: Stockholm Photo Diary

View of central Stockholm
Me in Djurgården park in Stockholm with Kanken rucksack
Hej hej! Hello! I’m back from a wonderful week long trip to Sweden and I am excited to share lots of photos and travel tips with you. Discovering new parts of this wonderful world is one of my favourite things so I really enjoy putting together these posts! So without further ado, welcome to part one of (probably) four Sweden posts – a photo diary of the super cool capital, Stockholm. 
Pastel coloured houses in Sodermalm, Stockholm
Buildings in Sodermalm, Stockholm

We spent most of our time in the much hyped area of Sodermalm and I can certainly see what all the fuss is about. It’s really chilled, with lots of space  and we loved exploring it’s little backstreets and alleyways. We stumbled across a nice walkway in Mariaberget – an area in north west Sodermalm – where there are aaaamazing views over Stockholm! And of course, no area would be complete without some awesome places to eat and there certainly is in Sodermalm. Keep your eyes peeled for my foodie post coming up!

Where to hang out in Sodermalm, Vita Bergen park, Stockholm
Vita Bergen park in Stockholm
The Vita Bergen park in Sodermalm, right next to the buzzing Skånegatan, is a lush haven on a hill with views over the city and a clear hangout favourite for young Swedes on summer evenings. It’s like a little community up high with classic Swedish cabin style houses and its own church!
Coloured streets in Gamla Stan, Stockholm

Living in the white city of Paris, I was completely taken by the gorgeous pastel and rustic hues in Stockholm. The little narrow streets in the central island of Gamla Stan is lovely for just strolling around. Make sure you look up!

Places to visit in Stockholm - Stadshuset city hall
View of Sodermalm, Stockholm
Me in the courtyard of Stadshuset city hall Stockholm
Architecture of Stadshuset city hall Stockholm
Across the water from my beloved Sodermalm is the laid-back and mainly residential area of Kungsholmen, in which we had a lovely evening stroll towards its main attraction – Stadshuset, the city hall. The building is beautiful, both from outside by the harbour and inside the impressive courtyard. There are also awesome views of Sodermalm from Kungsholmen. 
Blue gate entrance for Djurgården park island in Stockholm
House boats on Stockholm harbour
Stockholm is made up of about 14 islands, each connected by bridges and ferries and each with their own character and uniqueness. Djurgården island is one massive park, which is a great place to escape to. It also houses many of the city’s famous museums, including Skansen the world’s largest outdoor museum and…the ABBA museum! God I so wanted to go but I couldn’t persuade the other half to spend 20€ on looking at Abba costumes and experiencing what it might be like to be the fifth member of Abba. Maybe next time eh?!
Architecture in Sodermalm, Stockholm
Picturesque Swedish colourful houses in Sodermalm, Stockholm
Sunset in Stockholm

I hope you have enjoyed the first instalment of my Sweden posts! If you are considering a trip over to Sweden or even just Stockholm, I say DO IT! The people are so friendly and it’s so beautiful yet not too touristy, which are some key ingredients for a great holiday! For some more tips, stay tuned for a mini foodie guide, shopping advice in Stockholm and a post on the beautiful nature in Stockholm’s archipelago.

Salut! Je suis revenue des vacances en Suède, j’ai passé une très bonne semaine et j’ai hâte de partager mes photos et mes conseils. Voilà la première partie de (probablement) quatre posts sur la Suède et on commence par un journal des photos de Stockholm! Mon quartier préféré de Stockholm est, sans doute, Sodermalm. Il est détendu, beau et avec plein d’espace pour se balader tranquillement. Le parc, Vita Bergen en Sodermalm, est super pour passer une soirée d’été entre potes aussi! 

En habitant dans Paris – la ville blanche – j’ai trop kiffé les couleurs vives et pastels des bâtiments à Stockholm. L’île central de Gamla Stan est super pour se balader dans des petites rues mignons avec plein de couleurs! Il faut aussi visiter le quartier de Kungsholmen qui est assez résidentiel mais trop beau. L’étoile de ce quartier est l’hôtel de ville, Stadshuset car l’architecture est magnifique et il y a des belles vues de Sodermalm d’ici.

Stockholm consiste de 14 îles, chacun avec son propre caractère. Djurgården est un île qui est complètement un parc – super pour se détendre. Il y a aussi plein de musées sur cet île y compris Skansen et la musée d’Abba! Je voulais trop y aller mais Lewis n’était pas convaincu. La prochaine fois hein?! 

Voila, j’espere que tu as aimé mes photos de Stockholm! Il y a d’autres posts qui – viennent sur la bouffe, le shopping à Stockholm et la nature de l’archipelago. 

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Off to Sweden!

What to pack for a holiday to Sweden

Weeeeeyyyy my time has finally come!! I’m off on holiday tomorrow to Sweden for a week with Lewis and I cannot wait! We are staying in what sounds like an idyllic house in the countryside just south of Stockholm (Airbnb, obvs) and we’re hiring a car so we can do trips into the city and to the surrounding islands, Sweden’s archipelago. We’re going to have no wifi in the house (!!!) and although I’m tempted to completely cut myself from the internet world for a week, I shall indeed be posting updates on Instagram.

Have a great week my lovelies and I hope you’re looking forward to some Sweden travel posts when I’m back! Puss puss, as they say in Swedish! xx

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Paris Guide: Marché des Enfants Rouges

Marché des enfants rouges Paris, market marais
Marché des enfants rouges Paris flower and food market marais
A couple of weeks ago, my mum was visiting and we decided to check out what was on offer for lunch at the Marché des Enfants Rouges, just around the corner from my flat in the 3rd arrondissement. I have heard great things about the food here but have always been put off by the hustle and bustle and complicated (but actually not complicated) system of getting a table.
Parisians eating outdoors at Marché des enfants rouges Paris
Where to eat good Lebanese food and falafel in Paris Marché des enfants rouges
The Marché des Enfants Rouges is now a listed historic monument that was set up in 1615 (!!) and takes it name from from the orphans dressed in red taken in by the Hotel-Dieu de Paris hospital. Legend has it that a medium predicted that the surrounding houses would collapse if the market was ever destroyed and luckily it recently escaped demolition. Now, after that history lesson, let’s talk food. 
Falafel, humous, lebanese mezze at marché des enfants rouges Paris
There’s lots of choice of food, from fresh italian pasta to sushi and burgers but we went for the Lebanese counter. We just grabbed a waiter and she sorted us out with a table in no time. Between the three of us, we shared a mezze platter for which we chose lots of falafels, humous, aubergine chips, tabouleh, cold moussaka and greek salad. All that for 45€, which I admit is quite steep but that’s split between three people and it’s filling enough to be your main meal of the day. 
Where to eat good Lebanese food in Le Marais Paris

As well as having various sit down food places, the market does serve as a traditional market with lots of food stalls where you can buy fresh fruit and vegetables. I also love the photography shop, which is great for rummaging through boxes of random old photographs.

Photography shop in Le Marais, Marché des enfants rouges Paris
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